貝爾格萊德小夜曲|白天與夜晚截然不同的斯卡達利亞步行街。文青聚集地,融為一體的壁畫和街景,獨特的街頭藝術,一覽貝城最獨特的閃光點!

小酒館 Kafana Skadarlija Boem 是打卡熱點

貝爾格萊德(Belgrade)的夜生活享負盛名。入夜的Skadarlija是該處必去的景點,甚至有梵高《星空下的咖啡座》的影子。一度是失意詩人、學者集中地的Skadarlija,很多餐館都有樂隊彈奏小夜曲,主要是手風琴和小號,好不熱鬧。

誰在那邊歌唱?截圖

因著巴爾幹半島內的吉卜賽人眾多,不免影響了本國自身的文化,他們的輕快的調子也就隨處可見了。地位從來卑微的吉卜賽人受盡歧視,與迷信和夜夜笙歌撇不清關係。電影《快樂的吉卜賽人》裡,乘順風車的女主角被司機輪流調戲,因姦不遂後只落得與死豬關在貨櫃的結局。從農村到市區尋找機會,沒進行不法勾當的大多只能賣唱和做清潔工。他們經常面對就業困難,只能靠社會福利維生,能夠奪取發言權的更是屈指可數。

誰在那邊歌唱?》(Who’s singin’ over there?) 著墨於塞爾維亞角色對吉卜賽人的厭惡和不信任,醉心吉卜賽文化的Emir Kusturica,也以吉卜賽的音樂穿插他的經典之作《沒有天空的世界》(Underground)撥動觀眾心弦。這些都是被譽為南斯拉夫最出色的電影,當中又以寓言式的黑色喜劇《誰》和《沒》為佳。

《沒有天空的世界》截圖

無獨有偶,兩套電影的時序,僅僅在1941年德軍日以繼夜轟炸貝爾格萊德一刻相遇。前者在1980年上映,需知當時仍是由強人執政,這片的題材可謂政治不正確,因此比喻相當隱悔。老套的三角戀、兄弟情節千篇一律,《沒》的過人之處是南斯拉夫的倒影。據說當年在香港電影節播映時,門票被搶購一空。把它們看一篇,足以認識前南斯拉夫近代的故事。

Skadarlija有很多出色的餐廳,有三數間更具上百年歷史,不妨隨意叩門點一客烤肉和一小酌烈酒Rakija。

言歸正傳,女郎在高跟鞋上走鵝卵石路顯得舉步維艱,若只顧看著地下,會錯過了兩旁的美景。Skadarlija有很多出色的餐廳,不妨隨意叩門點一酌Rakija。晝夜的Skadarlija也很大對比;沿著斜坡一路是寫生畫家,在日照下以筆觸留下淨光掠影,是個寧靜的波希米亞區,又有人說是第二個巴黎的蒙帕納斯。

View this post on Instagram

#Skadarlija is generally considered the main #bohemianquarter of Belgrade, similar to Paris' Montmartre. Well-known, but mostly poor, poets and writers became regular visitors in the early 20th century, not just from Serbia but from the wider Yugoslav areas, even before the Yugoslav state was formed as such.There are many poems and stories created on the napkins and tavern sheets, which was a payment currency for many writers of that time; they paid for their food and drinks with their art created on the spot. Skadarlija is the second most visited tourist attraction in #Belgrade (after #Kalemegdan fortress) It includes well-known restaurants, hotels, art galleries, antique and souvenir shops, and the Sebilj fountain. Skadarlija is known as a place visited by young couples and entire families with children. Restaurants offer the typical national #cusine, most notably  grilled meat with #beer . ********************************************* In this picture- #kafana @sesir_moj ********************************************* #IvysAirbnb #cobblestone #Belgrade2018 #tours2018 #VisitSerbia #VisitBelgrade #eurotrip #europe2018 #travel2018 #WelcomeToBelgrade #sebiljfountain #skadarskastreet #sesirmoj #šeširmoj #experiencebelgrade #BelgradeExperience #ig_belgrade

A post shared by Ivy (@ivysairbnb) on

Skadarlija

地址〡Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia
Google Map|

Center map
Traffic
Bicycling
Transit